Annual report pursuant to Section 13 and 15(d)


12 Months Ended
Dec. 31, 2022
Accounting Policies [Abstract]  
Description of Business
Kontoor Brands, Inc. ("Kontoor," the "Company," "we," "us" or "our") is a global lifestyle apparel company headquartered in the United States ("U.S."). The Company designs, produces, procures, markets and distributes apparel, footwear and accessories, primarily under the brand names Wrangler® and Lee®. The Company's products are sold in the U.S. through mass merchants, specialty stores, mid-tier and traditional department stores, company-operated stores and online. The Company's products are also sold internationally, primarily in the Europe and Asia-Pacific regions, through department, specialty, company-operated, concession retail and independently-operated partnership stores and online.
Fiscal Year
The Company operates and reports using a 52/53 week fiscal year ending on the Saturday closest to December 31 of each year. For presentation purposes herein, all references to periods ended December 2022, December 2021 and December 2020 correspond to the 52-week fiscal years ended December 31, 2022 and January 1, 2022 and the 53-week fiscal year ended January 2, 2021, respectively.
Macroeconomic Environment and Other Recent Developments
Macroeconomic conditions, including inflation, rising interest rates, recessionary concerns, distress in global credit markets and foreign currency exchange rates, as well as ongoing supply chain disruptions, labor challenges and the COVID-19 pandemic, continue to adversely impact global economic conditions, as well as the Company's operations. We do not have significant operations in Russia or Ukraine, and exited our distribution arrangement in Russia in 2022. However, the conflict between Russia and Ukraine continues to cause disruption in the surrounding areas and greater uncertainty in the global economy. The Company considered the impact of these developments on the assumptions and estimates used when preparing these annual financial statements including, but not limited to, our allowance for doubtful accounts, inventory valuations, liabilities for variable consideration and contract termination, deferred tax valuation allowances, fair value measurements including asset impairment evaluations, the effectiveness of the Company’s hedging instruments and expected compliance with all applicable financial covenants in our Amended Credit Agreement (as defined in Note 10 to the Company's financial statements). These assumptions and estimates may change as new events occur and additional information is obtained regarding the impact of macroeconomic conditions, global supply chain disruptions, labor challenges, COVID-19 and the Russia-Ukraine conflict. Such future changes may have an adverse impact on the Company's results of operations, financial position and liquidity.
Basis of Presentation - Consolidated Financial Statements
The consolidated financial statements and related disclosures are presented in accordance with generally accepted accounting principles in the U.S. ("GAAP"). The Company’s consolidated financial statements for all periods presented are referred to throughout this Annual Report on Form 10-K as “financial statements."
Use of Estimates
In preparing the financial statements in accordance with GAAP, management makes estimates and assumptions that affect amounts reported in the financial statements and accompanying notes. Actual results may differ from those estimates.
Foreign Currency Translation and Transactions
The financial statements of most foreign subsidiaries are measured using the foreign currency as their functional currency. Assets and liabilities denominated in a foreign currency are translated into U.S. dollars using exchange rates in effect at the balance sheet dates, and revenues and expenses are translated at average exchange rates during the period. Resulting translation gains and losses are reported in other comprehensive income (loss) (“OCL”).
Certain transactions are denominated in a currency other than the functional currency of a particular subsidiary, and typically result in receivables or payables that are denominated in the foreign currency. Transaction gains or losses arise when exchange rate fluctuations either increase or decrease the functional currency cash flows from the originally recorded transactions. As discussed in Note 14 to the Company's financial statements, the Company enters into contracts to manage foreign currency risk on certain of these transactions. Foreign currency transaction gains and losses reported in the statements of operations, net of the related hedging gains and losses, were a gain of $7.9 million in 2022, a loss of $3.1 million in 2021 and a gain of $6.0 million in 2020.
Cash and Cash Equivalents
Cash and cash equivalents are demand deposits, receivables from third-party credit card processors and highly liquid investments that mature within three months of their purchase dates. Cash equivalents totaling $22.3 million and $113.7 million at December 2022 and 2021, respectively, consist of money market funds and short-term time deposits.
Accounts Receivable, Net of Allowance for Doubtful Accounts
Trade accounts receivable are recorded at invoiced amounts, less contractual allowances for trade terms and discounts. Royalty receivables are recorded at invoiced amounts based on the licensees’ sales of licensed products.
The Company is exposed to credit losses primarily through trade accounts receivable from customers and licensees which are generally short-term in nature. The Company maintains an allowance for doubtful accounts that will result from the inability of customers to make required payments of outstanding balances. In estimating this allowance, accounts receivable are evaluated on a pooled basis at each reporting date and aggregated on the basis of similar risk characteristics, including current and forecasted industry trends and economic conditions, aging status of accounts, geographical location, and the financial strength and credit standing of customers, including payment and default history. Additionally, specific allowance amounts are established for customer balances that have a higher probability of default. Receivables are written off against the allowance when all collection efforts have been exhausted and the likelihood of collection is remote.
Inventories are stated at the lower of cost or net realizable value. Cost is determined on the first-in, first-out method. Existence of physical inventory is verified through periodic physical inventory counts and ongoing cycle counts throughout the year.
Property, Plant and Equipment
Property, plant and equipment is initially recorded at cost. The Company capitalizes improvements to property, plant and equipment that substantially extend the useful life of an asset, and interest cost incurred during construction of major assets. Depreciation is computed using the straight-line method over each asset's estimated useful life, ranging from three to ten years for machinery and equipment and up to 40 years for buildings. Amortization expense for leasehold improvements is recognized over the shorter of the estimated useful life or lease term and is included in depreciation and amortization expense. Repair and maintenance costs are expensed as incurred.
Capitalized Computer Software and Cloud Computing Arrangements
Expenditures for major software purchases and software developed for internal use, including cloud computing arrangements with software licenses purchased from vendors, are capitalized and amortized on a straight-line basis over periods ranging from five to ten years. The Company's policy provides for the capitalization of external direct costs associated with developing or obtaining internal use computer software. Capitalized computer software costs are included in the balance sheet within "other assets." Costs associated with preliminary project stage activities, training, maintenance and post-implementation stage activities are expensed as incurred.
The Company completed its implementation of a new global enterprise resource planning ("ERP") system in 2021. During 2021, the Company capitalized $23.5 million related to the Company's global ERP implementation and information technology infrastructure build-out, of which $23.2 million is reflected within "other assets" and $0.3 million is reflected within "property, plant and equipment, net" at December 2021.
Cloud computing arrangements, including any related implementation costs, that do not include a license are accounted for as service contracts and the fees associated with the hosting service are expensed as incurred. The current and long-term portion of these costs are included in the balance sheets within "Prepaid expenses and other current assets" and "Other assets," respectively.
Intangible Assets
Intangible assets include acquired trademarks and trade names, some of which are registered in multiple countries. Amortization of finite-lived trademarks is computed on a straight-line basis over a 16 year estimated useful life. Trademarks and trade names determined to have indefinite lives are not amortized.
Depreciation and Amortization Expense
Depreciation and amortization expense related to producing or otherwise obtaining finished goods inventories is reflected in the Company's statements of operations within "cost of goods sold" and all other depreciation and amortization expense is reflected within "selling, general and administrative expenses."
Impairment of Long-lived Assets
Property, Plant and Equipment, Operating Lease Assets and Finite-lived Intangible Assets — The Company’s policy is to review property, plant and equipment, right-of-use operating lease assets and amortizable intangible assets for possible impairment whenever events or changes in circumstances indicate that the carrying value of an asset or asset group may not be recoverable. If the forecasted undiscounted cash flows to be generated by an asset are not expected to recover the asset’s carrying value, the estimated fair value is calculated, and an impairment charge is recorded to the extent that an asset’s carrying value exceeds its estimated fair value.
Goodwill and Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets — The Company’s policy is to evaluate goodwill and indefinite-lived intangible assets for possible impairment as of the beginning of the fourth quarter of each year, or whenever events or changes in circumstances indicate that the fair value of such assets may be below their carrying value. The Company may first assess qualitative factors as a basis for determining whether it is necessary to perform quantitative impairment testing. If the Company determines that it is not more likely than not that the fair value of an asset or reporting unit is less than its carrying value, then no further testing is required. Otherwise, the assets must be quantitatively tested for possible impairment.
Goodwill is quantitatively tested for possible impairment by comparing the estimated fair value of a reporting unit with its carrying value, including the goodwill assigned to that reporting unit. An impairment charge is recorded to the extent that the carrying value of the reporting unit exceeds its estimated fair value. An indefinite-lived intangible asset is quantitatively tested for possible impairment by comparing the estimated fair value of the asset with its carrying value. An impairment charge is recorded to the extent that the carrying value of the asset exceeds its estimated fair value.
Leases and Rent Expense
The Company enters into operating leases for retail stores, operational facilities, vehicles and certain equipment, with terms expiring at various dates through 2033. Leases for real estate typically have initial terms ranging from one to ten years, generally with renewal options. Leases for vehicles and equipment typically have initial terms ranging from one to seven years.
The Company determines whether an arrangement is a lease at inception and combines lease and non-lease components as a single component for all asset classes. For leases with a term of 12 months or less, the Company does not recognize a right-of-use asset and related lease liability.
Most leases have fixed rentals, with many of the real estate leases requiring additional payments for real estate taxes and occupancy-related costs. Certain of the Company’s leases contain fixed, indexed, or market-based escalation clauses which impact future payments. Variable payment provisions, such as contingent rent based on percent of sales or excess mileage over specified levels, are recognized when the liability is probable. The Company's leases typically contain customary covenants and restrictions. Rent expense for leases is recorded on a straight-line basis over the lease term beginning on the lease commencement date, which is the date the underlying asset is made available to the Company, and incorporates the effects of any associated landlord incentives or scheduled rent fluctuations.
Lease agreements may include optional renewals, terminations or purchases, which are considered in the Company’s assessments of lease terms when such options are reasonably certain to be exercised. For retail real estate leases, the Company does not typically include renewal options in the underlying lease term. For non-retail real estate leases, the Company includes the renewal options in the underlying lease term if renewal options are reasonably certain to be exercised. Renewals for all other leases are determined on a lease-by-lease basis.
The Company measures right-of-use operating lease assets and related operating lease liabilities based on the present value of remaining lease payments, including in-substance fixed payments, the current payment amount when payments depend on an index or rate (e.g., inflation adjustments, market renewals) and the amount the Company believes is probable to be paid to the lessor under residual value guarantees, when applicable. As applicable borrowing rates are not typically implied within our lease arrangements, the Company discounts lease payments based on its estimated incremental borrowing rate at lease commencement, or modification, which is based on the Company’s estimated credit rating, the lease term at commencement or modification and the contract currency of the lease arrangement.
Revenue Recognition
The Company recognizes revenue when performance obligations under the terms of a contract with the customer are satisfied based on the transfer of control of promised goods or services. The transfer of control typically occurs at a point in time based on consideration of when the customer has i) an obligation to pay for, ii) physical possession of, iii) legal title to, iv) risks and rewards of ownership of and v) accepted the goods or services. Revenue recognition within the wholesale channels occurs either upon shipment or delivery of goods based on contractual terms with the customer. Revenue recognition in the direct-to-consumer channels typically occurs at the point of sale for Company-operated or concession retail stores and either upon shipment or delivery of goods for e-commerce transactions based on contractual terms with the customer. For finished products shipped directly to customers from our suppliers, the Company’s promise to the customer is a performance obligation to provide the specified goods and the Company has discretion in establishing pricing. For each of these arrangements, the Company is the principal and revenue is recognized on a gross basis at the transaction price.
Contractual arrangements with customers in our wholesale channels are typically on a purchase order basis with terms of less than one year. Payment terms with customers are typically between 30 and 60 days. The Company does not adjust the promised amount of consideration for the effects of a significant financing component as it is expected, at contract inception, that the period between the transfer of the promised good or service to the customer and the customer payment for the good or service will be one year or less.
The amount of revenue recognized reflects the expected consideration to be received for providing the goods or services to the customer, net of estimates for variable consideration which includes allowances for trade terms, sales incentive programs, discounts, markdowns, chargebacks and product returns. Estimates of variable consideration are determined at contract inception and reassessed at each reporting date, at a minimum, to reflect any changes in facts and circumstances. The Company utilizes the expected value method in determining its estimates of variable consideration, based on evaluations of specific product and customer circumstances, historical and anticipated trends and current economic conditions. Estimates for variable consideration are recorded as "accrued liabilities" in the Company's balance sheets.
Revenue from the sale of gift cards is deferred and recorded as a contract liability until the gift card is redeemed by the customer, factoring in breakage as appropriate, which considers whether the Company has a legal obligation to remit the value of the unredeemed gift card to any jurisdiction under unclaimed property regulations.
During 2022, the Company launched a customer loyalty program, allowing customers to earn rewards which are redeemable across both brands for discounts on future purchases. Under the program, the Company estimates the standalone selling price of the loyalty rewards and allocates a portion of the consideration for the sale of products to the loyalty points earned. The deferred amount is recorded as a contract liability, and recognized as revenue when the points are redeemed or when the likelihood of redemption is remote.
The Company has elected to treat all shipping and handling activities as fulfillment costs and recognize the costs as selling, general and administrative expenses at the time the related revenue is recognized. Shipping and handling costs billed to customers are included in net revenues. Sales taxes and value added taxes collected from customers and remitted directly to governmental authorities are excluded from the transaction price.
The Company has licensing agreements for its symbolic intellectual property, most of which include minimum guarantees for sales-based royalties. Royalty income is recognized as earned over the respective license term based on the greater of minimum guarantees or the licensees’ sales of licensed products at rates specified in the licensing contracts. Royalty income related to the minimum guarantees is recognized using a measure of progress with variable amounts recognized only when the cumulative earned royalty exceeds the minimum guarantees and collection is probable. As of December 2022, the Company has contractual rights under its licensing agreements to receive $54.1 million of fixed consideration related to the future minimum guarantees through December 2028. The variable consideration is not disclosed as a remaining performance obligation as the licensing arrangements qualify for the sales-based royalty exemption. Royalty income was included within "net revenues" in the Company's statements of operations and was $32.5 million, $26.6 million and $18.7 million in 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively.
Disclosure is required for the aggregate transaction price allocated to performance obligations that are unsatisfied at the end of a reporting period, unless the optional practical expedients are applicable. The Company elected the practical expedients that do not require disclosure of the transaction price allocated to remaining performance obligations for (i) variable consideration related to sales-based royalty arrangements and (ii) contracts with an original expected duration of one year or less.
The Company has applied the practical expedient to recognize the incremental costs of obtaining a contract as an expense when incurred if the amortization period of the asset that otherwise would have been recognized is one year or less.
Cost of Goods Sold
Cost of goods sold for company-manufactured goods includes all materials, labor and overhead costs incurred in the production process. Cost of goods sold for purchased finished goods includes the purchase costs and related overhead. In both cases, overhead includes all costs related to manufacturing or purchasing finished goods, including costs of planning, purchasing, quality control, depreciation, restructuring, freight, duties, royalties paid to third parties and shrinkage.
Selling, General and Administrative Expenses
Selling, general and administrative expenses include costs of product development, selling, advertising and marketing, company-operated retail stores, concession retail stores, warehousing, distribution, shipping and handling, licensing, restructuring and administration. Advertising and marketing costs are expensed as incurred and totaled $137.8 million, $142.0 million and $98.8 million in 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively. Advertising and marketing costs include traditional and digital media, as well as other expenses related to demand creation and internal payroll costs for advertising and marketing employees. Advertising and marketing costs also include cooperative advertising payments made to the Company's customers as reimbursement for their costs of advertising the Company’s products, and totaled $4.3 million, $3.3 million and $4.6 million in 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively. Shipping and handling costs for delivery of products to customers totaled $89.0 million, $84.4 million and $56.2 million in 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively.
Derivative Financial Instruments
Derivative financial instruments are measured at fair value in the Company's balance sheets. Unrealized gains and losses are recognized as assets and liabilities, respectively, and classified as current or noncurrent based on the derivatives’ maturity dates. The accounting for changes in the fair value of derivative instruments (i.e., gains and losses) depends on the intended use of the
derivative, whether the Company has elected to designate a derivative in a hedging relationship and apply hedge accounting and whether the hedging relationship has satisfied the criteria necessary to apply hedge accounting.
To qualify for hedge accounting treatment, all hedging relationships must be formally documented at the inception of the hedges and must be highly effective in offsetting changes in future cash flows of hedged transactions. Further, at the inception of a contract and on an ongoing basis, the Company assesses whether the hedging instruments are effective in offsetting the risk of the hedged transactions. Occasionally, a portion of a derivative instrument will be considered ineffective in hedging the originally identified exposure due to a decline in amount or a change in timing of the hedged exposure. In such cases, hedge accounting treatment is discontinued for the ineffective portion of that hedging instrument, and any change in fair value for the ineffective portion is recognized in net income. The Company does not use derivative instruments for trading or speculative purposes. Hedging cash flows are classified in the Company's statements of cash flows in the same category as the items being hedged. Hedging contracts are further described in Note 14 to the Company's financial statements.
Cash Flow Hedges — The Company uses foreign currency exchange contracts primarily to hedge a portion of the exchange risk for its forecasted sales, purchases, intercompany service fees and royalties. The Company uses interest rate swap agreements to partially hedge the interest rate risk associated with the volatility of the applicable monthly interest rate benchmark.
Derivative Contracts Not Designated as Hedges — Any contracts that are not designated as hedges, primarily related to foreign currency exchange risk on certain accounts receivable and accounts payable, are recorded at fair value in the Company's balance sheets. Changes in the fair values of derivative contracts not designated as hedges are recognized directly in earnings.
The counterparties to our derivative contracts are financial institutions with investment grade credit ratings, but this does not eliminate the Company's exposure to credit risk with these institutions. To manage its credit risk, the Company monitors the credit risks of its counterparties, limits its exposure in the aggregate and to any single counterparty, and adjusts its hedging positions as appropriate. The impact of the Company's credit risk and the credit risk of its counterparties, as well as the ability of each party to fulfill its obligations under the contracts, is considered in determining the fair value of the derivative contracts. Credit risk has not had a significant effect on the fair value of our derivative contracts. The counterparties to our derivative contracts are also lenders under our Amended Credit Facilities (as defined in Note 10 to the Company's financial statements). These derivative contracts are secured by the same collateral that secures our Amended Credit Facilities.
The Company is self-insured for a significant portion of its employee medical, workers’ compensation, property and general liability exposures. Liabilities for self-insured exposures are accrued at the present value of amounts expected to be paid based on historical claims experience and actuarial data for forecasted settlements of claims filed and for incurred but not yet reported claims. Accruals for self-insured exposures are included in current and noncurrent liabilities based on the expected periods of payment. Excess liability insurance has been purchased to limit the amount of self-insured risk on claims.
Income Taxes
Income taxes are provided on pre-tax income for financial reporting purposes. "Deferred income tax assets" and "deferred income tax liabilities," as presented in the Company's balance sheets, reflect the net future tax effects of temporary differences between the carrying amounts of assets and liabilities for financial reporting purposes and the amounts used for income tax purposes. Net temporary differences and operating loss carryforwards are recorded utilizing tax rates currently enacted for the years in which the differences are expected to be settled or realized. We periodically assess the realizability of deferred tax assets and the adequacy of deferred tax liabilities, including the results of local, state, federal or foreign statutory tax audits and changes in estimates and judgments used. A valuation allowance is recognized if, based on the weight of available evidence, it is more likely than not (likelihood of more than 50%) that some portion, or all, of a deferred tax asset will not be realized. Accrued income taxes as presented in the Company's balance sheets include unrecognized income tax benefits along with related interest and penalties, appropriately classified as current or noncurrent. All deferred tax assets and liabilities are classified as noncurrent in the Company's balance sheets. The provision for income taxes as presented in the Company's statements of income also includes estimated interest and penalties related to uncertain tax positions.
Concentration of Risks
The Company markets products to a broad customer base throughout the world. Products are sold at a range of price points through our wholesale and direct-to-consumer channels. The Company’s two largest customers, both U.S.-based retailers, accounted for 36% and 11% of 2022 net revenues, and the top ten customers accounted for 62% of 2022 net revenues. Sales are typically made on an unsecured basis under customary terms that vary by product, channel of distribution or geographic region. The Company continuously monitors the creditworthiness of its customers and has established internal policies regarding customer credit limits. The Company is not aware of any issues with respect to relationships with any of its top customers.
Legal and Other Contingencies
Management periodically assesses liabilities and contingencies in connection with legal proceedings and other claims that may arise from time to time. When it is probable that a loss has been or will be incurred, an estimate of the loss is recorded in the financial statements. Estimates of losses are adjusted when additional information becomes available or circumstances change. A contingent liability is disclosed when there is at least a reasonable possibility that a material loss may have been incurred. Management believes that the outcome of any outstanding or pending matters, individually and in the aggregate, will not have a material adverse effect on the financial statements.
Earnings Per Share
Basic earnings per share is computed by dividing net income by the weighted average number of shares of common stock outstanding during the period. Diluted earnings per share assumes conversion of potentially dilutive securities such as stock options, restricted stock and restricted stock units.
Certain prior year amounts in the Company's disclosures have been reclassified to conform with the current year presentation.
Recently Adopted Accounting Standards
In March 2020, January 2021 and December 2022, the Financial Accounting Standards Board issued Accounting Standards Update ("ASU") 2020-04, “Facilitation of the Effects of Reference Rate Reform on Financial Reporting,” ASU 2021-01 "Reference Rate Reform (Topic 848): Scope" and ASU 2022-06, "Reference Rate Reform (Topic 848): Deferral of the Sunset Date of Topic 848," respectively (collectively "ASU 2020-04"). This guidance is intended to provide temporary optional expedients and exceptions for applying GAAP to contract modifications and hedge accounting to ease the financial reporting burdens related to the market transition from the London Interbank Offered Rate ("LIBOR") and other interbank offered rates to alternative reference rates, was effective upon issuance and applicable to contract modifications made or relationships entered into by the Company any time from the issuance date through December 31, 2024. The Company modified its Amended Credit Agreement (as defined in Note 10 to the Company's financial statements) and interest rate swap agreements during the fourth quarter of 2022 to transition from LIBOR to the Secured Overnight Financing Rate ("SOFR"), and applied the expedients under ASU 2020-04, which did not have a significant impact on the Company's financial statements or related disclosures.
Recently Issued Accounting Standards
In September 2022, the Financial Accounting Standards Board issued ASU 2022-04, "Disclosure of Supplier Finance Program Obligations," which requires entities that use supplier finance programs in connection with the purchase of goods and services to disclose key terms of the programs, outstanding confirmed amounts as of period end, a description of where those obligations are presented in the balance sheet and a rollforward of obligations. This guidance is effective for the Company beginning in the first quarter of 2023, except for the obligation rollforward requirement which is effective beginning in the first quarter of 2024, with early adoption permitted. The Company is currently evaluating the impact that adoption of this guidance will have on the disclosures to be included in the notes to the Company's financial statements beginning with the first quarter of 2023.